When I was thinking of writing for a film product placement, I immediately thought to myself, what movie is really badass cars? The Italian Job (the 2003 remake … just to clarify) was the first thing that comes to my mind. I know, I know, for anyone who has seen bits and pieces, or perhaps only seen once, you’re thinking, Mini Coopers … lame. Lame, they are not! This movie made those little girls are British cars as mobile spy notch. The Italian Job is basically a long advertisement for the Mini Cooper. It is showing how the car is at the same time paying homage to the original version of the car.
The pump energy resource Nissan Maxima is certainly electric so you should check out their connections and relays and even before examining pump gasoline or diesel. But if your vehicle still has complexity get fuel with the fuel tank of features, clean or possibly replace the engine fuel pump. The Nissan Maxima comes in several styles along with all trim levels can affect your choice of fuel pipe.
The mere fact that a car collector Jay Leno as prolific as Mercedes-Benz describes the 600 as your favorite car says a lot about the car.
A favorite dictators, business tycoons and celebrities from around the world, the Mercedes-Benz 600 was built without considering costs. Powered by a 6.3 liter V8 that produces 300, the Mercedes-Benz 600 had a top speed of 130 mph (210 km / h), which is impressive even today for a car that weighs more than 3 tons (6.614 lbs) .
2007 Mini Cooper S R56 N14 Turbo Oil line feed
The oil feed line is defective for all N14 engines (Mini could have solved the problem in the new models, but since they never confirmed it was a problem that really knows?), Which includes virtually all turbo Mini. The failure of these lines is usually around 40-50k miles. The design flaw is that Mini uses a rubber O-rings on the banjo bolts that connect the line to the turbo. The problem with this is that the turbo gets very hot. The constant hot and cold cycle ultimately destroys the O-rings and a line of dripping oil supply is the result. Mini knows about this problem and although this part is faulty recall was issued. I guess the main reason is that labor to replace this line runs about $ 1200, while the OEM part is roughly around $ 70-80.
This is a very important issue because the oil is essential to keep the turbo cooled. If your kitchen turbo you are looking at several thousand down the drain. Besides the engine N14 Mini and consume a lot of oil, add in a leak like this you are doing to have many more problems if you do not keep your oil levels in check. Symptoms of the problem is easy to spot. The superior screw hole that connects with the turbo can be easily seen. If any stain or discoloration of the wet oil around the connection, then the problem has already started. At first I noticed a small ring of oil around that connection. He spent a month, while monitoring closely the levels of leakage and oil. After talking to the Mini of San Diego and get a quote + $ 1,200, decided this fix myself. Below is a picture of what my oil feed line turbo looked right before changing the oil feed hose shown, this is 53k miles. Notice the dark spots of oil around the banjo bolt.
Oil feed line (one end with a 90 degree bend)
2 Banjo Bolts
4 washers Crush
Turbo downpipe gasket
3 to lower the turbo bolts (optional)
Metric Sockets – Regular wall and Deep
O2 sensor socket or 22mm wrench
Several screwdrivers length
Low profile ratchet (recommended)
High tooth ratchet (recommended)
V-Clamp 25 Nm / 18.4 ft-lb
O2 sensors 50 Nm / 37 ft-lb
RSS Oil Line Banjo Bolts 30 Nm / 22 ft-lb
Support bracket to the engine block 19 Nm / 14 ft-lb
Turbo charger exhaust manifold 20 Nm / 14.7 ft-lb
Labor ~ 2 days
Exhaust Manifold Diagram
The Mini Stealership wanted $ 80 + for just the show online as # 6 above, probably the same erroneous line that was originally in my car. Since power lines turbo oil are nothing special or unique to Mini, I decide to go aftermarket. You can almost any oil line 4A turbo size with a length of about 16-18in. One end of the line need a 90 degree bend and the other can be either straight or slightly curved 10-15 degrees. The screws holes are 12 mm standard.
Almost any auto shop that stocks of turbos have turbo oil lines. OEM Mini line is stiff and there are curves that are already on the line, the aftermarket lines are steel braided steel and are fully flexible, which makes it much easier to install. I did some research and found that populations of one TechnaFit Turbo Line Kit (Kit MCTL-0911) for Mini Coopers.
09-11 Although the title says, this kit does fit my 07 and I’m pretty sure all the other engines N14 too. And although the images show straight connectors really are bent at 90 degrees to the lower connection and a slight 10-15 degrees to the upper connection.
In addition to the oil line kit turbo, I also bought a gasket turbo downpipe (# 2 above), 3 screws turbo-down of (I ended up not needing) and finally a v-exhaust clamp (# 6). This made the total of <$ 70.
Lower O2 Sensor
This repair requires access to the top and bottom of the front engine compartment for jack stands are required. Once the car is on stands I would start by soaking the turbo-down connection pipe, v-clamp area and oxygen sensors upper and lower spray pb area. The oxygen sensor is more easily detected to the left of the turbo. The lower oxygen sensor is attached to the bottom of the downcomer. This will give you a little time to soak while you work on other things.
Remove the upper heat (# 17 – Escape Block Diagram). This was carried out until six 10mm bolts. The first three are easy, the bottom 3 are extremely difficult to obtain. Headroom is limited. I had to improvise and create long ratchets using screwdrivers and two 1.4 “and 8.3″ ratchets to get to the screws. To the left of the riser is to say the black flap Castrol therein. I dropped the bolt and turn that piece out of the way. This is is the part that took a lot of patience and time, below is what the turbo looks like the heat shield and the two improvised tools I used to remove the lower screws.
Once all the screws are out, you must remove the oxygen sensor before removing the heat shield. Use an oxygen sensor socket to remove the upper oxygen sensor. I did not have much trouble with this, but additional pb blaster and breaker bar may be necessary. Be very careful not to damage the sensor. moving the sensor to the side. Then the oxygen sensor shown.
Then I removed the v-clamp lower oxygen sensor. For me both these two subjects soak overnight pb plaster before he could get some. I ended up making almost breaking my O2. Finally I used an open end wrench to remove the sensor. I duct taped the sensor to the side so it is out of the way.
My V-clamp was so rusty that the bolt came down. I used a hammer to remove the bolt. Even outside the ring pin was welded. It took more gypsum pb, beating and prying to get the caliper off. This was probably one of the most frustrating parts for me. I decided to replace the V-clamp with a new one.
Then I moved to the lower heat shield (No. 5 downspout Diagram). This uses the same 10mm bolts like the other heat shield. Four to remove, two on each side. This heat shield can not be removed until the downspout is loosened and removed first, so just let it sit there for now.
The bottom of the downcomer has two supports (# 4-downcomer diagram) holding the motor downcomer. There are four bolts that connect the two supports for the engine and downspout to the brackets. I removed the bolts connecting the downpipe to the bracket and I just loosened the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine, leaving the two hanging brackets loose.
With the bottom of individual downspout, I moved to the top connection. I used a deep wall socket to remove the 3 nuts that connect the turbo to the downpipe. I was told that sometimes these nuts and bolts must be replaced. For me the three nuts were removed without any problem. I have read that sometimes the studs are removed, and nuts are actually soldiers stud!
With the downpipe completely separate the top and bottom, I used a piece of scrap wood and a rubber mallet to get rid of the downpipe to turbo. In a pointed also used a lever bar wrapped in a towel to avoid scratching things.
Now that the turbo downpipe is removed, move the bottom heat shield and downpipe. This takes a bit of fiddling around, but I finally had the opportunity to work down the downspout and away from the bottom. The lower heat shield is removed later. I ended up removing the brackets also, I’m not sure if this step was necessary but I did re-installation much easier.
Now that the lower heat shield and downpipe is removed there is more space and you should be looking up to something that looks like this. I saw some oil and decided to take the opportunity to clean everything.
The final heat shield must be removed. But this shield is blocked by an arm bolted to the middle of the heat shield bracket to the engine block. The bolt is 13mm. That bolt must be removed and the pivot bolt needs to be loosened. Then, the support arm should swing out of the way.
With the final heat shield removed should look something like this below. You should now be able to see the point of connection of the bottom line of the turbo oil feed. All previous job was just to get to this point of connection.
Old oil line
At this point remove the oil feed line. From the OEM rigid line is that it takes some fiddling to get it out. The new line, if you were the braided stainless steel is much easier to install. Make sure you use two washers crush each screw hole. Install the new line to the 90 degree bend at the bottom. I inserted the line from top to bottom. My new line looks like this.
New Stainless Steel Braid Line
To reach this point, this is all the hardware that had to be removed and faulty oil line.
After installing the new oil line, I just worked back and reinstall all parts. I put stick on the threads of the O2 sensor, just in case I have to get those things back. I replaced the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the down tube and the V-clamp between the downpipe and exhaust.
This process took two days. Probably could only have had one if he did not leave the gun pb soak for V-Clamp removal and O2 sensor. I would definitely recommend replacing both the V-clamp and gasket to a minimum.
New Mini Cooper SD gets 2.0-liter Turbo Diesel with 143hp and up to 65.7 UK MPG
MINI has introduced the diesel variant power even in its line-up in the form of the new Cooper SD is powered by a new 2.0-liter turbocharged four-cylinder oil burner that makes 143 horsepower at 4,000 rpm and an impressive 305 Nm (225 lb-ft) of torque, available between 1,750 and 2,700 rpm. The Cooper SD setting is offered in three-door hatch, the Clubman, the Convertible and the Countryman crossover.
The diesel four-pot is loosely based on the units of 1.6 liters installed in the MINI One D and Cooper D, and is linked to a manual six-speed gearbox with an automatic six-speed transmission is offered since its launch as an option.
To improve fuel economy and reduce CO2 emissions, all Cooper SD models come equipped as standard with Brake Energy Regeneration, the Auto Start / Stop, Shift Point Display, Electric Power Steering function and need-based operation auxiliary components and a diesel particulate filter and an oxidation catalyst.
In terms of performance, the three-door Cooper SD completes the 0-100 km / h (62 mph) in 8.1 seconds en route to a top speed of 215 km / h (134 mph), while sending an average fuel consumption of 4.3 l / 100 km (65.7 miles per gallon in the UK or 54.7 mpg USA) and CO2 emissions of 114 g / km.
The new Cooper SD Clubman to 100 km / h (62 mph) from standstill in 8.6 seconds and reaches a top speed of 215 km / h (134 mph). Its average consumption is 4.4 liters / 100 km (64.2 mpg UK) while CO2 emissions stand at 115 g / km.
The respective numbers for the Cooper SD Convertible are 8.7 seconds and 210 km / h (130 mph), 4.5lt / 100 km (62.8 mpg UK) and 118 g / km of CO2.
In the new Countryman diesel may be associated with either front-wheel or all-wheel-drive system MINI ALL4. The FWD Cooper SD Countryman sprints from 0 to 100 km / h (62 mph) in 9.3 seconds, the AWD 9.4 seconds on the way to a top speed of 198 and 195 km / h (123/121 mph ), respectively. The model front wheel drive has the fuel economy of 4.6lt / 100km, variant all-wheel-drive reaches 4.9 lt / 100 km. CO2 emissions are 122 and 130 g / km respectively.
The new MINI Cooper SD models will have their world premiere at the Geneva Motor Show next month, with sales set to begin in Europe in the spring.
Powered sensors to monitor the status of the nuclear fuel rod
ScienceDaily (Oct. 23, 2012)? Dai’ichi Japan Fukushima nuclear disaster that occurred in 2011 – the result of the strongest earthquake in the country and the powerful tsunami waves triggered – stressed the need for a method to monitor the status of the nuclear fuel rods doesn ‘t based on electricity.
During the disaster, the power connection to the nuclear reactor failed and gave backup generators, pumps and cooling systems useless sensors. Nuclear plant operators were unable to control the fuel rods in the reactor and spent fuel storage ponds.
To solve this problem, researchers at Penn State joined the Idaho National Laboratory to create a self-powered sensor capable of harnessing the heat of the harsh operating environments nuclear reactors to transmit data without electronic networks. The team will present their research at the Acoustical Society of America 164th Meeting next, 22-26 October 2012, in Kansas City, Missouri.
“Thermoacoustic exploits the interaction between heat and sound waves,” explains Randall A. Ali, a graduate student studying acoustics at Penn State. “The thermoacoustic sensors can operate without moving parts and require no external power if a heat source such as fuel in a nuclear reactor, is available.”
Thermoacoustic engines may be created from a closed cylindrical tube – whether a fuel rod – and a passive structure called a “stack”.
“Batteries use made ??of a ceramic material with a regular array of parallel pores is made as substrate for catalytic converter found in many automobile exhaust systems. These batteries facilitate heat transfer to the gas in the resonator, and the heat becomes ring when there is a temperature difference across the stack, “Ali produced.
When operating a thermoacoustic engine, a gas jet stream acoustically driven hot fluid flows away from the heat source – nuclear fuel – and along the walls of the engine and the surrounding coolant.
Penn State and Idaho National Laboratory are also investigating the use of thermoacoustic sound to monitor microstructural changes in nuclear fuel, measure composition of the gas mixture, and to act as a safety device in emergency situations.
A review of the Royal Enfield Bike
The organization collapsed Bike Royal Enfield in England. Anyway a house in Chennai in India, where the brand Royal Enfield motorcycle is currently done was discovered.
The organization has been riding the bike Royal Enfield for over 50 years at its plant in southern India. The basic model is the 350cc Bullet that has cut itself a specialty in the field of cruising. Bike In Lahore
The ball Royal Enfield introduced in India in the early fifties of the last century, when the Indian government bought a number of bikes to see outside the state of Pakistan recently. Consequently, the two-wheeler was given the license to be made in India. At first, the two-wheeled vehicle was assembled from loose parts transported from England, however, through the years, is currently fully indianigised cycle.
The basic model of the bicycle away from home is the projectile of 350 cc. There is also a model of 500cc accessible yet its fame is restricted. The shell is a durable 350cc machine and is controlled by a 4-stroke engine which produces 18bhp. Most models are available with a kick start, however, a car show starts adaptive Thunderbird is currently on the streets elsewhere. Royal Enfield slug is adaptable and simple in supporting bicycle, however it is not as effective as it relates mileage. Throw in correlation with the Japanese bikes like Honda and Suzuki, so it effectively becomes accessible in India numbers of poor efficiency.
The slug starts effortlessly with delicate firm push lever start with the foot. Place the bike on the stand and give a firm lever to start the bike leg and will begin with a whisper momentum. The engine is smooth and the 4-stroke engine could be made ??as obviously beats bicycle engine. It is essential to maintain the two-wheeled vehicle properly tuned and have the device for storing electrical energy in exceptional condition.
When the cycle begins guarantee that the electrical storage device is loaded from the meter on the front of the bike. Bike In Pakistan
The ball has an essential instrument group that is attached to the front of the handle bar. It has a speedometer, odometer and fuel as a storage device for electric meter simplicity of reference. The seats are nice and cycle movements are soft rigging. The cycle has 4 devices with a lever that takes the bike differ not biased. This is a great support in operating conditions of high thickness.
The hall mark of the cycle is its roughness and firmness. It is the main Bike india who can work your address to the Himalayas or Rajasthan desert trails. It also has a strong manufactured and hitting a jackpot in the opening 70 kilometers an hour is no problem for the rider and cycle. The cycle speed easily and once you hit the interstate is very pleasant to drive. Cycles speeding up that is not in series with the Japanese bikes, however, more than makes up with his persistence and perseverance. The two-wheeler could be mounted by a thousand kilometers from Mumbai to Delhi and will be nothing more unfortunate for him.
For my part, I have driven the bullet for 30 years and I can vouchsafe for reliability and ease of riding bicycles. It is certainly a machine that will keep you going forever. Thank God the cycle is not over age and is very much alive in India.